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302_block.JPG (89297 bytes) “Building Strength”

by Ed Inclan

  ·  How to prevent your 5.0L crankshaft from starving for oil by preventing main cap walk.

 When an engine is up to temperature and spinning at 5000 RPM’s or more, the crank and block tend to flex. This is caused because cast iron expands with heat and moves with pressure, this can cause the main caps to walk in the block.

 The job of the main caps is to keep the crankshaft in place and aligned. While doing their job they get severely pounded by forces generated from cylinder pressure. A naturally aspirated engine can produce about 1,700 lbs/psi of cylinder pressure, and if nitrous oxide is your choice, expect about 2480 lbs/psi to be generated from a stage I system.

 Taking into consideration that the rotating assembly absorbs some of that force, we simulated 500 lbs of pressure on a standard 302 main cap and saw .040” deflection. This shows that given the opportunity a main cap will deflect under pressure and could walk in the main cap saddle. If and when this happens, vital oil pressure may be lost and metal to metal contact will occur. Allow this to happen enough times and you will eventually spin a bearing and the rest will be history.

 The wizards at L&R Machine found that the problem lies in the main cap bolts.  Even when using a main girdle to strengthen the top of the main cap, the 7/16” bolt still has .040” play at the bottom of the main cap.  This amount of slop in the main cap is what we need to get rid of.

 The solution is to increase the size of the main cap bolt from 7/16” to ½”.  Money saving tip:  (All 351W engines use a ½” main cap bolt and can be easily used for this modification) If you are using a main cap girdle, a main cap stud kit will be necessary.

 Using an ARP ½“stud or bolt compared to a standard stud or bolt will increase the clamping force from roughly 12,000 psi to 19,000 psi at the main cap. This is made possible because the standard 302 bolt gets torqued down to 75 psi compared to 95 on a 351W and 130 psi the ARP bolt.

 This simple modification should only be done by a qualified machine shop and is only about $150.00.  Misalignment during the modification could make your block unusable.

 We followed Bob Jones at L&R Machine during the modification process. 

This modification is also available for small block Chevy engines. 

 

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(1) The 302 bolt is significantly thinner that that of the 351W in the middle or the ARP stud to the right (2) The gap between the 302 bolt and the main cap is visible (3) The main cap is put to the test by using a hydraulic press. Simulating 500 lbs we saw .040” deflection. When this deflection occurs, the cap will contract and can pinch the bearing causing a momentary lack of oil film that protects the crankshaft  (4) The 302 block gets bolted to a bench drill that has a multi-speeds for drilling and tapping.
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 (5) Using a bubble leveler to make sure the block was sitting perpendicular to the drill, the block was ready to be worked on. (6) With the main caps bolted down on the block, the drilling begins one side of the block at a time. (7) After the drilling is done, the drill is used to tap the holes and finished by using the manual tap for accuracy

(8) As you can see the hole is not only larger but the thread is now flush with the main cap saddle. Our new bolt will have more threads to work with.

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